Gruyeres is a fixture on the tourist trail and car access is restricted; mention that you are staying at the Hostellerie des Chevaliers, however, and the barricade is lifted. Even so, it took our inspector half an hour to find the entrance, outside the old town wall and behind a small car park to the right of the main gate. In 1998, the Corboz family took charge of the family hotel after a 20-year absence. The result is a lighter, brighter and more cheerful ambience. It's a real family affair, with Madame Corboz's son-in-law running the kitchen, where a gastronomic menu complements the traditional fondues and raclettes.
  Tiled floors, painted beams and old furniture create a traditional look and you can learn the history of Gruyeres from the tapestry in one of the three dining-rooms. An underground passageway hung with pictures links the main villa and another, which houses the bedrooms. These all have stunning views of meadows and mountains with attractive antique Swiss furniture, while bathrooms have received a welcome facelift. This is ideal for families and those wanting lo enjoy the medieval town once the tourists have left.