The mass of French cars and international business executives who regularly find their way to this old stone farmhouse, perched on a hill top, attest to the fine cooking of Philippe Chevrier. He and his wife, Bettina, are passionate about their business and set themselves extremely high standards. Our inspector was relieved to discover that they have neither been overwhelmed by the expense account gourmet dining nor fallen prey lo the pursuit of yet more Michelin stars.
   The place has a rustic feel with wooden beams, stone floors, and a courtyard. Our man relished gem after gem from the kitchen, each course matched by wine produced by vineyards visible from the window. 'This is not the paid-to-smile brigade', he wrote in tribute to the staff, 'they really hope you enjoy every mouthful.' There are rooms as well, furnished in rather plain, traditional style; some have large windows overlooking the Rhone and surrounding forests. The bountiful breakfast tempted our reporter to indulge once more. 'All this and only a short drive from Geneva and its airport,' he concluded. 'The only thing that will get thinner if you stay here is your wallet.'