Don't worry about finding Kemmeriboden-Bad: if you turn off at Schangnau, just follow the beautiful valley as it narrows, and the road ends in the car park by the hotel. When it was built more than 160 years ago, the sulphur springs provided the attraction here. They still do, but now visitors also come for the canoeing, fishing, walking, and mountain-climbing in summer, and the skiing in winter. Summer weekends can be busy, with local families driving out for specialities such as meringues, but somehow it never feels overcrowded. Perhaps that's because there is so much for children to do, decided our inspector, who noted the table-tennis and playground.
Although recently modernised, the original house contains large, traditional bedrooms, many with antique furniture but modern beds. In the extension, some bedrooms can sleep up to six, with a double bed and two sets of bunks. The balconies are useful for drying boots and jackets. There are also separate, simpler rooms without private bathrooms for groups.