South of Lugo, so more or less in the middle of Galicia, this is an idyllic and fascinating retreat at O Corgo, in the Terras do Mino nature reserve. At the foot of a long, wooded lane, and guarded by dogs almost as big as donkeys you'll find a collection of buildings. A small, square 19thC manor house contains the bedrooms, while adjacent 17thC farm buildings house a snug bar and a restaurant with picture windows that look across the meadow towards a river and mill. There is an air of complete satisfaction and tradition about this place: the owner has restored the mill to working order, likewise the forge (installing water-powered bellows and grindstones in the process) and now relaxes by making clogs for his friends using tools he made himself in the forge.
The ground floor of the manor is principally occupied by a comfortable sitting area crammed with artefacts of earlier ages. Supremely comfortable and traditionally furnished bedrooms on the galleried first floor have loopholes in the walls, from which occupants in former times could fire a musket at bandits setting about either of the principal entrances. The lace bedspreads are local work. Apart from good local walks, there are kayaks and mountain bikes to help mitigate the effects of the relaxed restaurant, which serves excellent regional food backed up by a well-chosen wine list.