A British woman has owned this hotel for the past seven years, and can lay claim to many loyal visitors (us too now - a chance encounter while in this beautiful, often forgotten, inland region). The 460-year-old building has been fully restored, creating six bedrooms for guests. The largest, at the top of the house, has spectacular views a private terrace, but our favourite is the smallest, Collado, with its rich blues and airy feel. The bed faces the window, which you will want to keep open in summer to allow the fresh breeze to blow over you.
   Maris knows the area intimately and can point you in the direction of many walks and drives. The kitchen produces typical Spanish cuisine, using fresh local produce, and has a surprisingly wide wine list for such a small hotel, with good choices from around the country. Sit outside with a tray of local almonds and honey, and you will be charmed - as we were.