Once the home of the in-laws of Velazquez's daughter and later a cathedral choir school, his posada could hardly offer better credentials. Today - with a 1961 addition - it is a six-tier labyrinth replete with curios, antiques and even frescoes. If you like stairs, antiques, history and exploring, this is the hotel for you.
Jennifer Morter, an expatriate Canadian, and her Spanish husband Antonio have lovingly decorated every room with great attention to detail and cleanliness ('you could sit on the floor', Jennifer likes to say). The sheets are pressed and turned back in the old-fashioned way. The rooms are all different and each has been given individual character - you may get a four-poster bed, a Latin inscription on the wall or a dreamy balcony with a magnificent view across the valley. Room 33 is the most popular, with its sloping floor and two balconies.
The rooms themselves are cosy enough to sit in but there is also a rambling breakfast room and bar where tapas is served with intimate nooks and a sunny terrace, as well as a TV room stranded on its own peculiar floor and a hall with a few antiques and a sofa.