Laax is one of the prettiest villages in the upper Rhine Valley and the Posta Veglia is arguably the region's prettiest inn. In 1978, Peter Panier gave up his marketing job in Zurich and came home, to create 'the kind of hotel that I always wanted to stay in.' The stone building with green shutters was once the hub of the community, encorporating school house, shop and Stube. Panier scoured antique shops for old furniture and pictures, stripped the paint off walls to reveal honey-coloured wood panelling, fired up the Davetscherofen and installed an old wind-up gramophone in the informal Beizli restaurant.
Upstairs, the old schoolroom is now the Arvenstube, complete with heart-backed chairs, deep red curtains and stern grandmas staring down from sepia photos. Food is traditional Swiss 'because people want that in the country but we have a lighter touch.' That does not mean tiny portions, however, whether it is fresh salmon or beef carbonnade; and there is always Rosti. Each bedroom looks different: swathes of gold fabric above the bed in one, painted Bauern furniture in another, a sleigh bed in a single and views of the mountains in the attic Panoramazimmer.