There is an abundance of wild fuchsia in the hedgerows of the little lanes around Pax House, high on a green hill looking down over Dingle Bay. Before breakfast, you can take an early walk down to the shore, or, from the terrace, count the cows coming out of the milking parlour of the farm below this rather odd building that was once a retirement home. Joan Brosnan-Wright, a former Stoke Mandeville nurse, and her husband, Ron, who was a BBC engineer, have transformed the place to provide a series of comfortable bedrooms decorated with an early Celtic theme. Joan has used letters from the Ogham alphabet (the earliest form of written Irish, used around 300AD and found on standing stones) to decorate curtains, monastic parchment shades on bedside lamps and Donegal woollen blankets on beds.
Most rooms have showers; cold taps produce water from the Wrights' own spring well. From the dining room, where Joan serves her delicious home-made breads (try the white almond or the brown fruit for breakfast) you can see the field on SleaHead that starred in a film with Tom Cruise, and over to the Ring of Kerry. The silence on the green hill is blissful, but Dingle, a swinging little town, with its full share of traditional music, pubs and restaurants, much frequented by celebs, is only a short walk away.