If you follow the popular route from Piazza San Marco to the Accademia gallery you will walk across the Campo Santo Stefano, a lively square, popular as a meeting place for locals, whose church has an alarmingly titled campanile. Close to all the activity stands the Hotel Santo Stefano, a well cared for little hotel housed in a 15th century watchtower whose front rooms have views of the square (although these are prone to noise).

  Bedrooms are richly decorated, with patterned red, blue or yellow wallpaper and Venetian paintings, individually lit glass-framed mirrors and Murano glass lamps. The owner, Mrs Gloria Torcellan, has made every effort to make rooms a world of their own with Venetian fabric padded and buttoned over doors and TVs and DVD players hidden inside cabinets, though some of the decoration, such as bright red faux-leathered bedheads, will not suit everyone’s taste. The refurbished bathrooms, with mosaic floors, all sport Jacuzzi water-massage and steam baths. Some rooms are very compact, but No 11, with views across the campo, is particularly light and spacious. There is a tiny courtyard terrace at the back of the hotel as well as one in front, where you can sip a coffee and watch the world go by.