No doubt about about it: this is a big-city international hotel, not a personal small hotel. But: it's exceptional in ways we like. The service is in a world of its own (including personal butlers); the food among the best our reporter had eaten anywhere in Indonesia; the setting is elegant, in well-tended, unostentatious gardens; the luxurious interior design is unique rather than formulaic. It's all about relaxed good taste, and by city standards it's in fact relatively small with some 60 bedrooms and the feel of a sumptuous private residence.