Under an hour from Paris, on a lazy curve in the Seine and overlooked by the pale remains of Richard the Lionheart's 12thC Chateau Gaillard, the cares of the world start to recede as soon as you pull into the peaceful gravelled courtyard of this 18thC inn. Despite being only a stone's throw from the centre of this little town, it could not be closer to the Seine without falling in.
  The new owners have retained the young, enthusiastic and professional staff and travellers are as warmly welcomed as ever. Six of the ten attractively decorated bedrooms look out over the river, one into the courtyard and the remainder towards the town church.
  The restaurant looks out over the river - raw beams, warm yellow rough-plastered walls, fresh flowers and a massive stone fireplace surround the tables that stand on the black-and-white tiled floor. Excellent food, with the quality lasting through the salad and into the cheese and dessert, and a full, but by no means ruinous, wine list should satisfy the pickiest of diners. If you are in the area, look no further than La Chaine d'Or.