On the face of it, the charm of Les Charmes is mostly in the shady walled garden, so big it’s almost a small park. At the far end, or by the pool, you could be far from it all, instead of at the heart of this world-famous Burgundy town. But there’s more. This 18thC maison bourgeoise is a world of its own, once you’re through the gates. The outside breakfast area, hard by the front door, under a glass and metal awning is, well, charming. Since the last edition we have learned that the breakfast room is now separate from the sitting room. But somehow it all hangs together: the patina of the creaky parquet, the neat tiled entrance passage, the antiques and quality repros all quietly tell you that things are done nicely here, in a spinsterish sort of way. Les Charmes is a charming small hotel in the sense that its negative features, such as the dark warren of upstairs corridors, don’t spoil things much. The place is now run by the Grimprets, but we were assured that apart from renovations on all the bedrooms, the atmosphere of the hotel, with some modern and some traditional rooms, remains the same. Be sure to ask for a traditional Grands Crus room, rather than a Village room. If you like integrity and a genuine French experience, stay here.