It may be the size of a railroad car, but this jovial Alsation Winstub does better chou-croute garni than any grand brasserie. The poached sausages and roast and steamed pork, nestling in a bed of nicely acid sauerkraut, are a carnivore's dream. A mug of Alsatian beer is the classic accompaniment. Equally satisfying is the backaofa, a thick, three-meat stew. For a lighter meal, ask the ruddy-faced waitresses for a flamenkueche, an Alsatian 'pizza' topped with bacon, cream, onions and cheese. The wine cellar offers 150 of Alsatian's best wines (Ostertag, Domaine Faller, Trimbach, and so on) and potent eau de vie.