Built in the Belle Epoque's most magnificent boulevards, this 1870 dreamhouse evokes the Second Empire and the exquisite world of Charles Swann, the protagonist of Proust's Remembrance of Things Past. It is now a museum strong on the French and Italian Renaissance. The charm of its sumptuous cafe pulls in local residents as well as museum-goers, and it is surely the only place where you can eat with a Gobelin tapestry at your elbow. While waiting for your salad to arrive (served with smoked salmon or breast of duck), look up at the trompe l'oeil ceiling by Tiepolo-and its gallery of 17th-century faces staring down at you from a painted banister.

Metro: Miromesnil