The zygomatic muscles of the lower cheek are used for two of pleasurable activities - smiling and chewing - and this bistro is a place to do both. It was a delicatessen in the 1920s, which explains the pre-war interior of marble counters, painted etched glass, and polished, walnut-moulded windows and doors. Starters include a luscious goat-cheese cannelloni. Typical of the main dishes is the crepinette de faison farci au chou et foie, a roll of sliced pheasant, with crispy skin on the outside, stuffed with cabbage and duck liver.