You could hardly ask for a more traditional looking Paris bistro - worn tile floors, huge gilt mirrors, a menu scrawled in chalk on a blackboard. But the classic French cooking also comes with many original touches. If l'espadon (swordfish) is on the menu, l'mulsion de vanille et noisette or au beurre de citron et gingembre, order it. Prices are fair and wines are accessibly priced. The bargain lunch menu nourishes a horde of temperamental Bastille locals, including artists and media types. The lunch menu was 13 euros as we went to press.