With its rather understated decoration, a classic blend of wood and neutral colours, enlivened by black and white photos of old Cyprus and a few discreetly-placed silvery olive trees, Mavrommatis is light years away from the tourist-trap Greek canteens of the nearby Quartier Latin. The food is as select as the clientele. You could choose from no less than ten traditional starters, but the warm octopus salad with lemon and olive oil is also hard to resist. Main courses include sheftalia, minced lamb pancakes, and the colourfully-named Cypriot 'resistance fighter' leg of lamb. The wine list includes what is probably the best retsina outside Greece, but possibly a more original choice would be the full-bodied Domaine Mercouri.