Perhaps the best way to get over a visit to Napoleon's tomb, the world's most pompous after the pyramids, is to lunch on a plate of Pascal Guillaumin's stuffed cabbage, chou farcie de ma grandmere. You won't find a more authentic version in Paris. The chef has his own wonderful recipes, too, from starters such as ravioles de homard to desserts such as the sublime millefeuille la vanille. It serves as a lunch canteen for people working at the neighbourhood's government ministries (also UNESCO). Rare is the tourist who knows about it.