There are two main attractions at this hugely popular, historic brasserie located just off buzzing Place de la Republique: the superb marquetry by celebrated cabinetmaker Charles Spindler, and the enormous platters of seafood and choucroute ferried around the vast dining room by waitresses in Alsatian costume. What makes the choucroutes so special is that instead of the usual boiled ham they carry a whole knuckle of roasted pork taken from the rows of spits by the door.