For longer than a decade the father-and-daughter team of Jon Barkwith and Jo Reddicliffe have been running Plas Domelynllyn with considerable style. Parts of it are more than half a millennium old but there was still work going on when we visited. It sits in a very comfortable way on its own bench above Ganllywd, near Dolgellau, taking in the beautiful views across the valley, and, in the principally Victorian interior, antiques mingle equally comfortably with more modern furnishings to create a warm, friendly atmosphere. China and crystal twinkle on all sides. The drawing room is elegant but the dining room is obviously where the team gets down to real business. Jo's award-winning cuisine, best described as imaginative modern British, has a widespread fan club and we could well understand people, even vegetarians, who might beg for an extension to their booking. There is an extensive wine cellar which is unlikely to lack the perfect complement to her food, and minor diners get an early sitting to themselves.
  Bedrooms are named after local rivers and individually furnished and decorated; most have splendid views. There is excellent walking from the front door and all guests have access to that essential for a Wales hotel, the drying room. This is a passionately non-smoking hotel.