We revisited The Cross in 2018 and came away as enthusiastic as ever. 

From the moment you arrive at this Highland oasis, it’s clear that nothing is too much trouble. Despite being early for check-in after a long drive from London, our reporter was shown to her room by friendly staff that offered to collect the luggage from the car. Attention to detail is obvious everywhere: luxury bedding, a cafetière press, a selection of books provided in every room – a genuine home from home experience.

If you can, book a room overlooking the Gynack Burn – these are the most peaceful. Since our last visit, most of the bathrooms have now been equipped with large, powerful walk-in showers.

The two guest sitting rooms are great for reading and relaxing with a cup of tea after a day of local rambling. The staff are attentive without being intrusive – our reporter noticed that they came to switch on the table lamps in the guest room and provided tea refills without being prompted.

The Cross is well known for its award-winning restaurant which continues to thrive, according to our reporter. Chef David Skiggs’ menu is based around the best seasonal produce and local ingredients are used wherever possible. There are two evening menus on offer: a three-course dinner, and a slightly pricier six-course tasting menu. There is also a cheaper alternative at lunchtime. The signature dish is local butcher George Gow’s loin of lamb, served with a cannelloni of its own shoulder, artichoke puree, glazed onions, broccoli, and jus gras.

The centrepiece fire in the restaurant is a glowing focal point and makes each table feel intimate because it divides the space and reduces noise. Everything about The Cross feels something like home. Derek and Celia have adapted the old mill very thoughtfully: it’s neither overdone nor understated.