Yet another pretty village, yet another hotel with a fascinating history. The building dates back more than 500 years and the Stüva still has its tiny trapdoor, through which the farmer’s family would squeeze to get to the sleeping quarters above. Rudolf Pazeller’s grandfather started the Stüvetta in 1912 to cater for workers restoring the castle and, despite subsequent expansion, the overall look is traditional. Decorative carving is everywhere, floors are of glazed terracotta cobbles, and the old kitchen could be a museum. In total contrast are the modern exercise equipment and sauna down below that were cut out of the granite mountain.
   The hotel is full of surprises: gardens and terraces on different levels, fragrant with herbs and ablaze with flowers, even a pavilion where the famous local mineral water is on tap, like beer. As for bedrooms, sit back in the bath of number 124 and stare straight at the castle; lean on the balcony of number 119 and imagine it full of hay when it was the barn. Our reporter admired the four-poster beds and carved ceilings but could do without the burgundy-coloured wallpaper in number 120.