Although Guarda has a population of only 170, it is a well-known tourist destination, thanks to its highly-decorated houses and resident craftsmen. Our reporter was relieved to have climbed the switchbacks from the valley by car, rather than the horse-drawn carriages that brought earlier visitors to this century-old inn. Built as a farmhouse in 1645, it was converted to an inn by Benno Meisser's great-grandparents. Modern improvements have not always been sympathetic. The box-like restaurant extension has fabulous views over the Engadin Valley to the Swiss Dolomites but lacks the elegance of the old wood-panelled, high-ceilinged dining-room.
     Bedrooms vary. Our reporter was impressed by the hospitality and carefully-prepared local dishes.