Arta has retained much of its medieval character: massive walls, a fine church (on the site of an Arab mosque), narrow streets and magnificent views over a lush valley to the sea. Ca'n Moragues was carved some years ago out of the former 19thC town hall in the old part of town. Among all this old and mellow masonry, its minimalist interior makes an intriguing change to the homely, rustic style of so many of the other places to stay on Mallorca.
  The heated pool is especially striking, with ultramarine roof, cadmium- yellow walls and yellow-ochre sandstone. Rooms are furnished only with what a guest would find absolutely necessary. The result is a purity which you'll either like or dislike; at least it's not predictable.
  Guests can explore the hotel's 130-hectare finca, a 10-minute drive away.