Maria Luisa R. Bethencourt's 200-year-old Caserio de Mozaga is just the place to savour some of the oddities that make Lanzarote an island like no other. The old family home, painted the island's regulation white and green, sits in a scruffy, windswept, inland village, a world away from the seaside resorts. In an adjacent field grow palms and drago plants in soil covered in picun, a grey volcanic gravel used by locals to keep the earth underneath moist. Other methods of dealing with the island's scarcity of water are evident in a rock terrace incised with rivulets to catch the infrequent rain, and a traditional water purifier in the form of a chunk of lava rock set over an old urn.
  Most of the bedrooms are set around a pretty geranium-decorated courtyard centred on an old well. Rugs on wooden floors, shutters and country antiques such as a chunky washstand or potty cabinet give them plenty of character. This is very much a place where you feel part of a home.
  Breakfasts (generous buffets) and dinners (a la carte featuring local vegetables and fresh fish) are great.