Nestled among time-worn brick buildings in a steep alley in the fortified borgo of Montone, the Locanda del Capitano gracefully melts into the medieval architecture of the village and is just a stone's throw from the centre. Once the residence of 12thC military commander Braccio Fortebracci, this delightful locanda now houses a more contemporary celebrity: chef and owner Giancarlo Polito, or 'The Captain' as he is known to locals, is famous for his creative cuisine and warm personality.
Two airy verandas, with wrought-iron tables and chairs for pleasant summer breakfasts, give way to small but graceful bedrooms inside, with pristine iron beds on parquet floors and antique furniture. Two bedrooms offer glorious views of the bucolic stone streets and lush hills surrounding the village. Montone's central piazza is just down the road, and is closed to traffic but filled with the noises of village life, such as locals chatting and children playing on the cobbled streets, which can sometimes reach bedrooms. With the periodic ringing of the church bell, it seems that at the Locanda del Capitano, time has stood still. The restaurant offers a wide selection of wines, a refreshing take on traditional local ingredients, such as truffles and edible funghi, served in an elegant atmosphere with bow-backed chairs and an antique piano.