The Bleulers used to manage the long-established Tenuta di Ricavo at Castellina. They opened the doors of Villa San Giovese in Panzano, a few miles to the north, in 1988 after completely renovating the building, and winning high praise from our readers. The main villa is a neat stone-and-stucco house fronting directly on to a quiet back street; potted plants and a brass plate beside the doorway are the only signs of a hotel. Attached to this house is an old, rambling, stone building beside a flowery, gravelled courtyard-terrace offering splendid views. The landscaped garden below includes a fair-sized pool. Inside, all is mellow, welcoming and stylish, with carefully chosen antique furnishings against plain, pale walls. Bedrooms, some with wood-beamed ceilings, are spacious, comfortable, and tastefully restrained in decoration. The dining room is equally simple and stylish, with subdued wall lighting and bentwood chairs on a tiled floor. A limited but interesting la carte menu is offered, which changes each night; service on the terrace in summer. A reporter praises the food and the wine.