Stay at Villa Pasquini, Massa e Cozzile, and you step back into the 19th century. Little has changed here, either in furnishings, or decoration, since then. Until seven years ago, it was the autumn retreat of an aristocratic Roman family, the Pasquinis; then it was bought, fully furnished, by the present incumbents, who have lovingly preserved it, combining a family home with a most unusual hotel. The bedrooms are, of course, all different, some quite grand with canopied beds. Bathrooms are old-fashioned, but well equipped. In the attractive dining room, originally the entrance hall, the emphasis is on traditional recipes. Our reporter chose the fixed-price menu (five delicious courses) and thought the price very reasonable.