This fine wood-clad former inn, set in ideal driving country in north-eastern France, is a great stop-off or destination in its own right. Key here is the food, with chef/proprietor Michel Husser garnering various awards for his imaginative, excellent use of local goods and classic flavours. Special gourmet breaks are often available and well worth the time and expense.
  Elsewhere, the hotel itself has a modern feel, with rooms styled in a contemporary manner and with art and furnishing that could have been plucked from a city gallery. Other touches - including Nespresso machines in the bedrooms and a well-equipped spa and hammam - are even more forward-thinking.