Despite his rapid rise to fame, the chef at this rustic little restaurant, stashed away in a winding street in the Marais, has kept a level-headed approach to success. Dishes on the succinct menu are still based on products that arrive fresh every morning and, happily, the beamed 17thC dining room with its round tables conducive to conversation remains free of any attempt at modernisation. In his small, impeccable kitchen Alain Carrere works on the best produce from his native south-west: tuna from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, farmhouse pigeons, Salers beef and sheep's cheese from the Pyrenies.