Rare is the chef who straddles the line between tradition and invention with the finesse of Thierry Breton. Given the low price of his gourmet menu, he also merits the title of a public benefactor. He gleefully experiments with the best ingredients in a classic bistro setting near the Gare du Nord train station. The result can claim to be a sort of new regional cuisine. Dishes such as lasagnes de chevre et artichaut breton au pistou, and milllefeuille de betteraves et foie gras poile are genuinely original. For dessert, try the traditional Kouing Amman, a stack of ultra-thin pastry leaves filled with butter and sugar. Be sure to book.