No visit to Paris is complete without a visit to Chartier. Two centuries ago this was a bouillon, a workers' canteen. Bought by Edouard Chartier in 1896, the cavernous restaurant still caters to anyone on a tight budget or who is looking for basic fare such as house pate, snails, egg mayonnaise, steak and chips, sole meuniere. The decoration is listed revolving doors, antiquated mirrors and brass coat stands nothing has changed since the beginning of the 20th century. But it's as popular as ever - diners still have to share a table and wait to be seated. Noisy, boisterous and immortal.