Chef Jean-Guy Lousteau is on a mission to convince Paris that his native Basque country has the best food in the world. If you give him an afternoon or evening of your time, he might well succeed. His classics include smoked tuna, chipirons a l?encre (baby squid), pimentoes del piquillo farcie (sweet stuffed peppers), piperade, and the finest lamb from the Pyrenies. Lousteau, a sommelier by training and inclination, also has a notable wine list with an excellent choice of Madiran, Iroul guy and so on.