This art nouveau monument historique is guaranteed to induce reverie as you stare at chandeliers reflected in mirrored walls and sip the world?s best beer. Poured out in oddly shaped glasses, the Belgian brews - blonde, brown or amber - have names that evoke sin (Duvel, 'Devil') and its consequences (Mort Subite, 'Sudden Death'). Palm Speciale is on tap. For food, choose between the restaurant or the cheaper, more informal cafe. Waterzooi de poulet fermier la gantoise is a speciality - chicken poached in broth, cream and vegetables; there is also a fish version. If ravenous, try the suckling pig roasted in beer.