The Hotel du Bois is up a short flight of stairs in the little cobbled rue du Dôme, with an exterior of alluring white stucco, offset by black wrought-iron balconies and railings hung with geranium-filled window boxes. This popular Paris hotel, a step from the Arc de Triomphe, is in the same English ownership as the Queen Mary (see page 150). The winter of 1996 saw the total refurbishment of bedrooms and public rooms, and the du Bois upgrading to three stars. The pale yellow walls with dashes of bright red in sofas, curtains and lampshades brighten the ground floor, which is furnished with reproduction antiques and paintings; its marble floor, strewn here and there with rugs. Light streams in through huge French windows in the only reception room, where breakfast is served at small round tables. This room has a summery feel, and plenty of sofas for relaxing.

Bedrooms are comfortable, though nothing special, with double glazing, gleaming white tiled bathrooms, and handsome co-ordinated fabrics. Prices are attractive, especially for such a dignified Right Bank location, and the atmosphere is very similar to that of its sister hotel. As for places to eat in this area, you are spoiled for choice, ranging from gourmet restaurants to jolly local bistros.