Recommended by a trusted reporter, this unpretentious Welsh farmhouse, renovated in 2004, has four bedrooms done up in contemporary-traditional style, with restrained good taste. All the basics are spot on: Egyptian cotton sheets, best quality beds. Three of the rooms have window seats for pondering the views across the Tal-y-Llyn valley, with the superb Cadair Idris almost on the doorstep. A topend, modern B&B, run by friendly Alex and Lorraine, who live in a separate wing. Guests can feel private in their own sitting room and dining room. The daily-changing dinner menu, with a useful choice of wines, was £25 for three courses on our last visit.
   Think about coming here to enjoy the coast as well as the mountains – it’s only half an hour from the sea. The scenery around here, north of the Dovey estuary, is exceptionally wild and beautiful, and less overrun than Snowdonia. While the main route up Cadair Idris starts from nearby Minfford, a non-standard route to the top begins within half an hour’s walk of Dolffanog Fawr.