At the northmost tip of Mull, Glengorm Castle boldly surveys the Sound of Mull, Ardnamurchan Peninsula and, vivid at sunset in the far distance, the Outer Hebrides. It stands on a 5,000-acre estate that is yours to roam. "Everything," says Tom Nelson, "that Mull is noted for, from white-tailed eagles to whales, can be seen at Glengorm."
   There are five guest bedrooms occupying the principal bedrooms of the house; spacious (two are huge) and charming, with characterful bathrooms and pretty wallpapers. These rooms are a delight, especially with the lack of televisions and telephones - which are kept out of sight.
   This is a family affair with Tom, Marjorie and their three children living in one wing: guests are hosted in another. There's a lofty hall and sitting room (deep sofas, board games, big fire). You can also relax in the library, where whisky is complimentary and the fire can be lit if you wish.
   Dinner isn't served at Glengorm, but the Macdonald Arms Hotel in Tobermory (four miles away) is well worth a trip. In the morning, enjoy the excitement and hearty breakfast in front of those stunning views. The remote spot can make the evening meal a challenge without a car, but the scenery, breakfast and family-feel makes it worthwhile.