Owner and artist, Thema Innecco, has created a pousada of both form and function: a modern steel-and-glass art gallery regularly exhibits local artists while six imaginatively decorated bedrooms are clean and comfortable. Each is named and themed after Brazilian artists. A particularly inventive room is themed after Arthur Bispo do Rosario, Thelma’s favourite artist, and his room in a psychiatric institution: exposed brick, roughly painted walls, and a chintzy bed canopy. Others are more modest but each is individually furnished. The bathrooms are small and functional, and public space is minimal, so breakfast is served on a small terrace outside. The highlights were some local delicacies we’d not tried anywhere else.