Set apart from the resort-heavy Orla Bardot is the charming Praia dos Ossos, not as picturesque but no less charming, and more reasonably priced. L’Escale is a kitschy French restaurant-with-rooms and the perfect alternative to the bustle of Orla Bardot: a haven of tranquillity but still close enough to the action.
   Francis, a talented chef, cooks for the small, neat restaurant and serves authentically French cuisine, mainly from fresh seafood caught in the nearby harbour. His wife, Sylvie, oversees everything else. It works, and they clearly enjoy the quieter side of Buzios.
   The five rooms are characterful, cosy and well priced. The best have views over the clear waters of Buzios, and hammocks in which lazing is mandatory.
   The breakfast is tasty and served on the pretty blue terrace,